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    October 21

    Day 3

    Day 3

    Sep. 27th 2008

     

         今天去左参观 princess mothermemorial hall,距的纪念馆系Chao Praya River的另一边,可以满足我搭一搭express boat的心愿。express boat系大众交通工具,平同唔塞车令距优于bus,而且其中一个码头同BTS接驳,可惜服务时间太段,下午6点之后就无船。Chao Praya River唔系好靓,连珠江都不如,不过两岸,特别系在旧城区附近,N多闪闪的寺庙,好梦幻。我唔系甘清楚泰国的历史,所以都唔系好清楚princess mother系边个,不过从距的故事可以睇出,贤良淑德的女人真是特别受人敬仰,除左好似一般的皇室成员甘要出席N多活动,距系屋企就基本上系种花、制陶、刺绣、将植物标本整成书签~~ 系个庭院度坐左N耐,人地话伊度好有泰国园林风情,如果真系的话,我觉得国内营造的泰式园林都过于气派。  

    IMG_4125

         Chao Phraya River express boat       

     IMG_4130 IMG_4142

                                       the garden of Princess mother's memorial hall

     

         搭船翻去guest house罗翻个backpack,准备去火车站。系大街上稳15号车,寻晚坐回guest house的时候发现距途径火车站,鉴于我对曼谷公交车的好感,又一次登上15号。我同个售票员讲话去hualamphong,距听明白了,但同司机BIBIBABA一串泰文,然后有个婆婆又加把口,反正好似我系迷路的小羔羊甘可怜。跟住个售票员用英文同我讲:“We don't go,take NO.45,I tell you"GOD~~~我尝试用英文解释我坐过伊部车,而且经过火车站,将地图都罗埋出黎,无用~~ 距都听唔明,净系不断甘讲"take No.45,I tell you." 我认命了,或者去程同回程的线路有少许唔一样,我打算比钱买票,但系个售票员由始至终都无黎收我钱,搭左56个站,距叫我落车,又一次No.45,连个阿婆都整句No.45。我道谢之后就落车,虽然我终究都等唔到45号车,但系~~~ 泰国人真是~~超可爱。

        

          同中国火车唔同,泰国火车站随便出入,系车上先检票,而且火车早早就系站度等,我8点的火车,7点半就已经可以上车了,有D比人我上得更早。系火车上认识了两个可爱的泰国小妹妹,没想到当我回国的时候,她们已经在中国了,系浙大的留学生。

     

     

        I paid a visit to the Princess mother's memorial hall today, which locates at the other side of the Chao Phraya River. I took an express boat from pier No.13 to No.6,which cost 15B. Express boat is a public transport, it's cheap and would never get you into a stressful traffic jam. It gains more appreciation than bus in BKK. What's more, it's connected to BTS in Pier Central. What a pity, you can't take the boat after 6:00pm. The Chao Phraya River is not so charming by itself, worse than the pearl river in Guangzhou ,in my opinion. But the view of the shore in the old city district is fasinating, many shining temples standing out there. I don't know much of thailand's history and I've no idea who princess mother is.  It's said the garden of the Princess Mother's memorial hall features much of thai style. It's just so natural when sitting on a bench in the garden.  The immitation of thai style gardens in China are too artificial. 

    October 19

    what is thai style

    Day 2 What is thai style
    Sep.26th 2008
     
           大皇宫,布局同色彩都同中国的寺庙好唔同,一道可以兼作走廊(走廊上放置佛像)的围墙(墙上有壁画)将寺庙主要建筑物都围闭起身,最重要的建筑是玉佛殿,供奉玉佛和举行宗教仪式的场所,另外还有三座高人一等,坐落系最高平台上的建筑,先王殿、藏经阁和佛骨殿。围绕伊几大建筑的系其他一D宫殿。成个大皇宫都色彩斑斓,除左闪,都唔知道可以用咩黎形容。红色、金色、蓝色,仲有可以起到“闪”的效果的彩色玻璃片,伊个就系距地色彩的中心。
    IMG_4089    IMG_4093
    the three major architectures locating on          the Emerald Buddha's palace
    upper terrece
     
           泰国的街头N多路边小食摊,卖汽水的、卖果汁的、卖烧烤的、卖汤粉的,可能伊个国家D人都系小食多餐,有人同我讲,距话泰国人一日到黑都系度食,即使系公司,零食都会唔离口,虽然可能有D夸张,但每餐的分量确实太少,以至一日三餐根本填唔饱我个肚。中午去左间汤粉店,个嬷嬷唔识英文,我又唔识泰文,见到距摆住D材料同潮州鱼蛋粉N似,就按潮州鱼蛋粉的做法指左几样材料,再指下锅汤,甘样嬷嬷就炮制左碗kuaytiaw比我。罗到我面前的时候,我仲以为距地虾外国人,因为D粉基本上一啖就可以食完,仲35猪,之后见到其他人的都大概系伊个分量,只有认命。
          今天我由老城区穿过唐人街一路杀到火车站,之后又做MRT去左silom,一路上见到好多铺头,都有中文铺名,特别系在唐人街附近,好多汽配店、金铺、珠宝店、海味店、药材铺,成行成市,分门别类甘集中一起做生意,伊种甘中国的风味,可能似30年前的香港,或者宜家广州的一德路可以稳到,但系曼谷可以将中国风诠释得甘有韵味,激动之余,可能更多的系沉思,系我地在迎接世界的过程中遗忘了传统,而海外的华人,却一直帮我地保留中国的传统,并且展示比世界。
         系silom尝试坐公共汽车翻guest house,上左车show张地图出黎比个售票员睇,距竟然唔知道系咩地方,明明系show大皇宫比距睇,甘都唔知道,但系个售票员指示我坐低,跟住撤左个后生女,用泰文BIBIBABA讲左段,我系地图上指大皇宫比个后生女睇,跟住问距伊部车岩唔岩线路,距用好勉强的英文话无错,跟住同个售票员又BIBIBABA甘一大串,跟住个售票员用英文讲 "I tell you",又指指张地图,哈哈,泰国人真是好热情同友好~~~
     
          the Grand Palace, the layout and color of the thai-style temples are very different from those of Chinese style. A wall which functions as a hall to house buddha images and is painted with murals encloses the main architectures. The most important building inside this wall is the Emerald Buddha's palace where the emerald buddha is located and anual religious ceremony is held. Other major architectures ane locating on the upper terrece: the royal pantheon,the Phra Mondop(library) and the Phra Si Rattana Chedi. The less important palaces surround the major buildings. Colorful and shining may be the best words to describe the grand palace. They like to use  small pieces of colorful glass which can create the effect of shining  to decorate the external wall.  
     
         Many street vendors sell snacks in thailand, some selling soft drinks, some selling orange juice, some selling BBQ and some selling rice noodle.  Thai people like snacks, they don't eat much on regular meals and eat snacks for a whole day. Someone tells me, even in the office while they are working ,thais eat snacks. It sounds  a little exaggerated, but the fact is they actually eat too little for regular meals . In thailand ,three meals for one day just can not satisfy my stomach. I had lunch at a small noodle shop, the mama can't speak or understand English, either I can speak thai. I saw the ingredients they used to cook noodle were quite similar to those in Cantonese noodle., so I just pointed to diffetrent ingredients , and show them to cook in the boiling water. The mama quite understood this and cooked me a bowl of rice noodle with fishball. This is what the thai people call kuaytiaw. I was not so satisfied with that 'cause it's just a mouthful of rice noodle in the bowl. I thought  they were cheating foreigners. It cost 35b. I looked around and found the locals were also eating the exactly mouthful. Well, this is my destiny.
     
         I did a lot of walking today, from the old city distrcit to the China town to the Hualampong Railway Station and took a MRT to silom.  Many shops in the street use Chinese title, especially around China Town. Each street specializes in selling one thing such as automobile parts\gold\jewery\dry seafood\herbal medecine. very Chinese style. You can hardly find these in China now. Maybe it's quite similar to that of Hongkong 30years ago ot that in Guangzhou yide Rd. It's hard to imagine Bangkok has such a thick atmosphere ofChina tradition. Happy, but more thoughts, Now China is stepping into an era of globalization. We, Chinese people ,becom more and more international and westernized ,and seem to forget our own tradition. The oversea Chinese are trying their best to keep the traditional way of living or doing business in other parts of the world.  They are the ones  who truely preserve the China's tradition and show it to people all over the world.
     
         I was trying to take a bus back to my guest house. I got on the NO.15 in silom RD.  I showed the ticket seller on the map that I wanted to get off at the grand palace,well my guest house was not far from it. But she couldn't understand. She dragged me to sit down and got a young lady involved. I showed the young lady on the map. She understood and spoke to the ticket seller in thai. And it seemed things got fixed. The ticket seller showed me a ten-baht coin. I gave her  and she returned me a one-baht coin and ticket. And with the awful English, she said:"I tell you". Anyway ,I can understand. Thai people are very friendly and nice.
     
        
        
     
     
        
     

    sleep at the airport

    Day 1   sleeping at the airport
    Sep 25th 2008
     
         曼谷时间1:20am,飞机降落在曼谷机场,2:00am已经办完入境手续,无打算出市区,因为我早就决定学D鬼佬训机场,而且素闻曼谷机场随便让人训,到4楼离境大堂一看,果然名不虚传,跟住我就打横摊系排凳度,断断续续甘训左两个钟,因为实在太冻,另外有只鬼坐左落排凳的另外一面,恩恩脚食薯片,又嘈又振~~~ 后来转战到2楼一个比较僻静的角落看书,竟然又睡着了,到6:00am先起身,发觉系我周围训的N多系机场的工作人员,有个阿婶仲训到跌左落地,一副如梦初醒的样子~~~ 哈哈,我的面皮越黎越厚~~~IMG_4075
    the 2nd floor of the airport where I had a good sleep
     
     
    IMG_5348
    the 4th floor of the airport where someone disturbed my sleep
     
       The airplane landed on Suvarnabhumi Airport at 1:20am bangkok time. It was 2:00am after I went through the Immigration and custom checks.I was not planning to hit the downtown 'cause I had decided to follow what many foreigner backpackers might do, sleeping at the airport. I went straight to the 4th floor ,the departure hall and as it is said, many people were sleeping there. No one would stop you from doing that. I picked a row of chairs and lay down. It's not a good experience, for the next 2 hour, I just fell asleep for a while and woke up, and again ,fell asleep for a while and woke up . It was too cold, what's more, a westerner sat on the other end of my row of chairs, eating potato crisp,too noisy. After that, I converted my resting place to the second floor which was comparatively quiet, began to reading books and then,surprisingly fell asleep~~ I woke up at 6:00am and found many airport staff were sleeping there. One madame, she was sleeping so dead that she realized nothing after falling off the chair. Haha~~ though not comfortable, it was an interesting experience~~~ 
     
       
     
    October 17

    我的线路 route plan

                      路线图

         上图黄线表示使用的交通工具为火车,绿线表示使用的交通工具为汽车,蓝线表示使用的交通工具为船

     

       深圳——曼谷——廊开——万象——龙帕帮——会晒——清孔——清迈——曼谷——广州

       Shenzhen—Bangkok—Nongkhai—Vientiane—Luang Prabang—Hueoxay—Chiangkhong—Chiangmai—Bangkok—Guangzhou

     

      为什么会形成这样的线路,其实这条线路很不经济,'cause为交通费付出了昂贵的代价~~~唯一满足了的就是最初的愿望——游湄公河以及尽量多游一个国家,虚荣心作祟。如果只是在泰国玩,可能花费会少很多。 

      

        飞曼谷的时候系亚航,简直抢钱,机上的餐饮以泰珠结算,我用50蚊RMB(理应换250B),买左杯30Bmilk tea,找翻我120B,无形中亏了100B~~~ 我的娘啊~~~~~

     

      从曼谷到廊开这个边境小镇,我选择了火车,曼谷到廊开600多公里,在靠山路看了看旅行社代理车票价为600多猪(很奇怪的是曼谷到请迈700多公里,才350猪,那确实像天上掉下来的馅饼了),而火车二等空调硬卧的票价是708猪,相对于汽车有点少贵,但才1.2/公里(约0.25/公里),那中国的火车大概也是这个价格了。事实证明选择火车是正确的,中国的列车跟人家简直是无法比较嘛,虽然泰国的火车从外观上看是破破的,但是人家的服务真是一流哦。发车是在HUALAMPONG火车站,车站里面有冷气,也有很多餐饮服务,厕所收费,竟然还有浴室(收费),但用10猪冲个靓凉倒是心情愉快,浴室内都是泰国妇女,外国人不见,我除外,可见泰国人真的很爱干净。火车卧铺的布置跟国内的不同,只分两层,下层是凳,需要睡觉的时候才变成床,确保了每个卧铺旅客都有凳仔坐,中国火车可是6个人争两张凳。不过火车内的座位编号隐蔽得很好,搞到我稳左N耐都稳唔到,傻晒,某韩国男见到我好迷惘的样,走过黎offer help, 奇怪,他的英文出乎意料的好,真是韩国人吗?火车上面的床单被铺都是洗干净密封好的,我企图整理床铺的时候,很恐慌地比人拉了下来,原来整理床铺是乘务员的职责,乘客是犯不着自己动手,难怪泰国人看着我都觉得很奇怪。在我下床的两个小妹妹竟然用中文问我是不是中国人,就这样聊了来,还知道她们其中一个很快就到中国留学,她们说在泰国都很多人学中文,但听说中国没什么人学泰文,所以有点伤心。我们乱七八糟什么都谈,她们说somtum是泰国东北部的特色,可惜我到这个trip结束还是没有吃到somtum。火车上的冷气超冻,哆哆嗦嗦地半睡了一晚。

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                                             Hualamphong railway station

    IMG_4155

                                               破破烂烂的泰国火车

     

    IMG_4156

     second class A/C sleeper ,the upper can be folded up,the lower can be changed to two seats

     

       从泰国边境廊开(NONGKHAI)过境到万象(VIENTIANE)可以在镇上tuktuk40猪)到friendship bridge,出关后可以等公车(15猪)到桥对岸的老挝关口。但如果要申请回头签(re-entry visa,一定要在Nongkhai Immigration申请,离关口大概1公里,在往Uton tani的路上。在老挝出关后坐14路到市区(tasat bus terminal),5000KIP20猪)。

     

         万象(Vientiane)到龙帕帮(Luang Prabang), 在万象北边的bus terminalVIP大巴(135000KIP),与A/C bus120000KIP)是同一个售票亭,本来是打算坐A/C大巴的,买票的时候迷迷糊糊甘比人引导左去VIP大巴的窗口,问一问原来VIP大巴包中餐,那就算了,反正在老挝随便吃个汤米粉都要10,000KIP。还好在这趟车上认识了杭州MM晓葳,看来那也是缘分的召唤吧。老挝的路真是不敢恭维,400KM,行左10h,相当于在川藏线最烂路段的车速了,问题是老挝的山路唔似川藏线甘烂,甘原因就只能归于车的性能或者是司机的技术了。不过后来系龙帕帮,晓葳买回昆明车票果时,刚好见到开那趟车的司机,距话老挝的路真系好烂,时间很不好控制芸芸。我要庆幸自己走水路到会晒。

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     northern bus terminal in Vientiane ticket box for A/C bus and VIP bus

    IMG_4416

                       the VIP bus I took

    IMG_4419

                       the A/C bus

       

         龙帕帮(Luang Prabang)到会晒(hueoysay),可以坐快船或者慢船,沿湄公河逆流而上。我先到龙帕帮国家博物馆后面的慢船售票处咨询一下慢船的情况,每天一班,830发船,1730到柏宾(Pakbeng),在柏宾住一晚,然后第二天830发船,1730到会晒,开价280,000KIP,远远高于我预期,讲价讲了半天,才谈到260,000KIP,貌似谈不下去了。船上还分硬座和软座,售票的那个人还说如果我马上付款,会安排我坐前排的软座,如果我等到发船那天才买票,就只有硬座了。我最憎就系人地大我架啦,而且距销售意味太浓,都唔似系正路,简单黎讲:“I don’t trust him.” 后来去做旅行社问一下,个sale话慢船最低只能给260,000kip,绝望中问下快船(尽管有人说快船的价钱是慢船的两倍),开价360,000kip,讲价讲到340,000kip,但快船个码头黎镇N远,问个travel agent有无得pick up。距话pick up要另外加钱,最后385,000kip成交连pick up service。快船从Luang PrabangHueoxay大概7个钟,午餐在pakbeng。坐船果日到码头发觉,明码实价标明320,000kip for foreigner,哎~~~ 260,000kip for local。最激气的是人少唔开船,所以,如果脾气唔好的人在老挝都系避免选择少人使用的交通方式,反正我系无咩所谓,顶多系会晒住一晚。出乎意料的系同一程船的handsome Danmark guy都可以好平静甘等,对于西方人黎讲,唔守时简直就不可理喻,可能距见到有外国人陪距一齐等,所以好啖定。仲系度写日记~~~ 10点左右先开船,大概1点多少少到Pakbeng,中午饭后2点又再出发,5点多到会晒。到Pakbeng之前都系4个人坐,但系在Pakbeng之后又乱七八糟拼左D,最后有9个人坐,我就无咩所谓,可怜长腿的丹麦哥哥,那个委屈~~~~伊趟水路旅程真系难忘,有靓仔,有靓景~~~

    IMG_4728

           

    IMG_4729

                     the ticket box for the fast boat

    IMG_4732

                      This is the so-called fast boat

             PS:老挝的tuktuk真系令我觉得好恐怖,即使系首都万象,都系无的士,出入都靠tuktuk,而D bus terminal黎市中心唔远唔近,必然要搭tuktukD tuktuk driver就趁火打劫.在万象,由我住的guest housenorthern bus terminal,大概系2km,个tuktuk driver开价40,000kip,而且有张印得靓靓的价目表比你睇,40,000kip相当于32蚊人民币,即系每16蚊/km,呵呵,贵过任何地方打的了,甚至贵过我曼谷飞广州的机票的单价。甘林法,系老挝做tuktuk driver算系最好的工作了,每天只要能跑上一趟,就可以翻屋企叹茶啦。

     

         会晒(hueoxay)到清孔(Chiangkhong),在会晒镇上一条不起眼的巷行到湄公河边,出老挝关,搭ferry8000KIP)到对岸的清孔,入泰国关。在泰国关口就会看到很多私营车辆兜客去清莱(Chiangrai)或者清迈(Chiangmai),清孔到清迈300KM不到,250猪,5h,坐的系商务车,还不错,路上的景色偶尔系泰北平原景色,偶尔系山地。而且10座的商务车就只有4个人,大家都可以打横摊系度~~~~路还可以,泰国的highway比中国的高速公路要低一等级,但比中国省道要好;而泰国二级道路就相当于中国的省道,所以系泰国坐车唔会太痛苦。

     

         清迈(Chiangmai)回曼谷(Bangkok),350猪,晚上发车,这是所有旅行社代理的价格,早上发车的要到arcade bus terminal,好似要500猪左右,这个是正常价格。原本以为旅行社代理的就是那种双层VIP大巴,原来不是,有少许失望,昏昏沉沉地睡了一晚,清晨6点半到khaosan Rd

     

         曼谷飞广州,南航,没有特别感觉,N多中东人搭果个航班,都系黎广交会的~~~~